Locate the surveyor's markers in the corners of your lot.
Place a stake in each corner and connect with mason line.
Stake the location of the posts at max 8' on centre along the string line.
If possible, avoid placing fences in drainage ditches or swales as you may impede drainage or break a local bylaw. The added moisture will also accelerate rotting and cause stains to peel.
DIGGING POST HOLES
Call utilities before you dig
Dig a hole 8" in diam. and 3' to 4' deep - making sure the hole is below the frost line (check local building regulations for frost line conditions in your area.)
SETTING POSTS
Tamp a 2" gravel base in the bottom of the post hole
Place the 4"x4" post on top of the gravel in the hole
Add a few shovels of concrete into the hole
Place a level on the post to ensure it is perpendicular
Fill the hole with concrete, checking frequently that the post remains perpendicular
Brace the post unitl the concrete sets (at least 24 hours)
Fast Set concrete eliminates this stage. It sets in minutes and allows you to build your fence in about 1 hour
2. Attaching Rails
Ensure concrete is set.
Use galvanized fence clips to attach the rails.
Start in a corner and attach a fence clip to the post. Use 1-1¼" glavanized nails.
Place a 2"x4" rail in this clip and lay the rail against the next post. Level the rail and mark the bottom of the rail on the next post.
Attach a clip at this mark. Secure the rail to both clips with 1-1¼" glavanized nails.
Use a square to transfer the location of this clip to the opposite side of the post and repeat the process to the next post.
3. Attaching Boards
Board location and spacing depends on your fence design. See designs illustrated above.
Attach a board next to a post.
Check to be sure the board is level.
Cut a spacer board to the required width to use for a consistent board spacing.
Check the level of the boards every few feet.
Attach boards with 2-1½" galvanized nails at each rail.
